A solemn time for Thailand- in memory of King Bhumibol Adulyadej

   Thailand's beloved King died last October, while we were planning our move to Bangkok. We knew we would be living here when they held the funeral one year later and it has been a very sobering experience. King Bhumibol had ruled for 70 years and most Thais have only known him as King. The outpouring of respect and grief shows how much he was loved. 

  When we first arrived in Bangkok, we saw memorials everywhere with large photos of the king embellished with bunting in black and white. Inside all public buildings are lavish shrines with his picture. Many people bow or show respect when they pass by.
   Now the formal year of mourning is almost over and the King's funeral will take place Oct 26 with many ceremonies over a series of 5 days. Starting October first, we noticed many changes in Bangkok-the BTS only plays soft music while scenes from the King's life show on the monitors instead of the usual raucous commercials.  All photos and videos in newspapers, online and on news shows are in black and white. The King's other name, Rama IX, show up at night on buildings, and there is a brisk business for special t-shirts in black with his symbol on it. (We bought them also)
   Here are some of the signs of respect around the city:

In the BTS stations- scenes from his life

On the sides of Malls

Here is a beautiful memorial with the number "9"

in marigolds for Rama IX

Shrines at small businesses

In our local Tesco grocery store

In lights, the number 9

 

Siam Paragon mall had a spectacular memorial- 

and also a large display of his many Royal projects

(over 4800) that helped Thailand and his grateful subjects

   At every mall there were stands set up for people to make paper flowers for the funeral- there were ALWAYS people making them, day or night. They must have made millions.

October 13 was the anniversary of the King's death and a national holiday. The new King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun honored his father at the making merit ceremonies in the Grand Palace Throne room. 

   During the ceremony, monks chanted and the King gave out robes. See the photos above and below show the monks with their ceremonial fans.

   Next week start the 5 days of ceremonies and rituals. Here is a how to see all the information, from maps, photos of the royal chariots, explanation of processions to timelines:

        www.bangkokpost.com and choose the left button.

  

   The city is preparing for hundreds of thousands of visitors from around Thailand to view the funeral-we will watch live on TV and hunker down as EVERYTHING will be closed. We share the sadness of the Thai people over the loss of their King.

                                                     Until next time, Audrey

   

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All the color and excitement of the Navaratri Festival

   Today was our lucky day! Over breakfast I read about the largest Hindu temple in Bangkok that was an easy 2 train hop, so we decided to see this today. By beautiful coincidence, it is the final day of Navaratri, the festival honoring the Hindu Goddess Durga and everywhere were families making shrines.

   I stopped and asked a guy what were all these gorgeous altars and though it took a few other people to help him translate, he said it was "for all the Goddesses, with a parade tonight". As we walked along (in the street, as these were all built on the sidewalk) each altar more beautiful than the last. The smell of jasmine and marigold, the statues, families all working as fast as they could stringing flowers, arranging fruits- it was amazing! 

   At one altar a boy handed us iced orange juice and food as it honors the Goddess to supply sustenance. No two shrines were alike and while a few were very professional looking, all were very lovely displays of devotion. 

On the two streets we walked, there must have been at least 250 of these wonderful shrines. As you see in the 3rd photo, most everything was made from plants and flowers by hand, even these snakes with money coming from their mouths!

   Once we arrived at the Temple itself, the details and colors were overwhelming...

 Inside it was bursting with worshippers, making the rounds inside of the different altars. I did go inside (barefoot) and though they didn't allow photography at the holiest places, here are a few pictures:

   There were long lines of people waiting to buy offerings and then you could go into the main hidden altar where bare chested priests would accept and place them for you. Over loud speakers, a woman's chanting prayer filled the entire block. Inside the temple it was very solemn while the street displays were more of a fun holiday vibe. Next year we will come back for the parade which is something to see, as the Goddess is pulled along in these golden chariots by hundreds of worshippers. 

   Thanks for stopping by!